2012/12/19

Alkandora josi dezagun! (3) Tutorial and Rosy´s sew-along

Tutorialarekin hasi baino lehen, Rosyren sew-alongaren inguruan hitzegin nahi dizuet. Beti bezala pare bat proiektu abian ditut (tutoriala aparte), eta euretariko bat Rosyren laguntzarekin josten gabiltzan jantzia da. Rosyk oso oso oso harrituta nauka, irakasle bikaina da eta patroiak guk egitea lortu du! Bai ondo ulertu duzue nire patroia egin dut. Eta noski oso harro nago :-) eta nire ehuna ebakitzeko gogo biziak ditut (begiratu sarrera hontan ze ehun aukeratu dudan). Eskerrikasko Rosy!


Before starting with the tutorial, I want to talk about Rosy´s sew-along. Like always I´m sewing a couple of projects at the same time (apart of this tutorial), and one is the dress we are going to sew with Rosy´s help. Rosy amazes me, she is a clever teacher and she has achieved that with her help we have drawn our pattern with our measures! Yes, you understood well, I drafted my pattern. I´m so proud of it :-) and I want to continue and cut my fabric (you can see my choice in this post). Thanks Rosy!


New-girl sew-along pattern, drafted by Masustak Eguzkitan.


Beno ba hirugarren eguna heldu da eta gaur mahukak nola josten diren azalduko dut. Mahukak ondo kokatzeko, joste marka guztietan ebaki bat izatea beharrezkoa da (lehenengo eguneko tutorialean azaldu nuen).

Mahukak gorputzean ondo kokatu daitezen eta dimentsioa egokia izan dadin, tolesdura batzuk sortu behar ditugu. Eta tolesdura hauek sortzeko makinaren tentsioa aldatuko dugu. Hariaren tentsioa 0-an izanda, bi joste marra josiko ditugu mahukaren ertzean zehar eta joste marken artean.

In our third day, we are going to sew the sleeves. To sew the sleeves well located, we would pass all the marks from the pattern to our fabric, properly (I made a little cut, see tutorial´s first day).

When we are matching the armhole and the sleeve, we have an excess fabric, so we have to gather all that excess of fabric, between marks by pulling on thread tails. For that, you have to change the tension in your sewing machine. The tension will be 0, and we are going to sew two times between marks. We should change the tension, if we want to pull easily on thread.

Picture from Masustak Eguzkitan.

Picture from Masustak Eguzkitan.

Bi josketa hauen ertzetatik tiratzen badugu, tolesdura txikiak sortzen dira. Tolesdura edo tximur txiki hauek ondo banandu behar ditugu luzera guztian zehar, alde batetik oso tximurtuta geratu ez dadin.


If you pull in the edge of the seam with tension 0, small wrinkles will appear. These little wrinkles have to be well separated between our marks.


Picture from Masustak Eguzkitan.

Orain mahukaren ertza josiko dugu. Hau ere frantsez akaberaz josiko dugunez, atzoko tutoriala irakurri dezakezue berriro, kanpoaldetik josiko dugu lehenengo, alfilerrak bertan kokatuz (hurrengo argazkia begiratu).

And now we have to sew sleeve´s edge. Read again yesterday´s tutorial to sew french seam. See the picture below to understand.


Picture from Masustak Eguzkitan.

Gure mahuka bakoitzak hiru marka ditu, bat zentruan eta bi aldamenetan. Zentrukoa sorbaldetako joste lerroarekin (beheko lehen argazkia) kokatuko dugu eta beste bi markak gorputzetako piezetan egin ditugun markekin kokatuko ditugu (beherko lehenengo argazkia). Ez ahaztu frantsez akaberan josten gabiltzanez, gorputzaren kanpoaldea bistan izango dugula eta mahuka gorputzaren barruan sartuko dugu buelta emanda.

Each sleeve has three marks, one in the middle and two in the corners. You have to located the middle mark with the shoulder (see second picture below) and corners marks with the marks on the front and back pieces (see first picture below). Don´t forget that you have to sew french seam and don´t forget also placed the sleeve into the armhole, putting wrong sides together.


Picture from Masustak Eguzkitan.

Picture from Masustak Eguzkitan.

Mahukak jostea zaila egiten bazaizue, marka eta tximurrekin, joste markak hilbanatu daitezke eta horrela piezak ez dira inora mugituko. Mahukak josten ditudanean makinari osagarri hori ateratzen diot errazagoa izan dadin.

If you think that sewing sleeves is so difficult only with the pins, you can baste in the marks and in that way the piece doesn´t move. When I am sewing sleeves, I always remove this sewing machine´s piece and insert the armhole in the machine (see the pictures below).


Picture from Masustak Eguzkitan.

Picture from Masustak Eguzkitan.

Beno ba mahukak josiak ditugu!

We have just sewed our sleeves!

8 comments:

  1. Good job on the draft. That part's always fun for me.

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    Replies
    1. Yes, it was funny!! I thought that it was going to be difficult but it was well and I enjoyed very much!

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  2. Tengo unas ganas locas de hacerme el patron, pero estoy esperando a estar con mi ama, y que me ayude a coger bien las medidas...como ademas le he pedido a los reyes lo del Pattern Magic, tengo que ponerme las pilas.
    Musuak (lo he puesto bien?)

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    Replies
    1. Lo has puesto muy bien Merche!!! Eskerrikasko! (Gracias)
      Yo ahora me pondré con las modificaciones y a ver qué tal. Qué suerte tener a alguien que te ayuda!

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  3. Hola, ¿ qué es el Pattern Magic Merche?
    Saludos
    Esther (todavía sin su cocoon)....

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  4. Uy que bien lo de las mangas, me ha gustado el truqui de las puntadas no tensas, la verdad, lo que es el no saber, yo las engancho a la torera y me quedan un poco churros! Gracias! Esta guay cuando se ve con fotos!

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    Replies
    1. Qué bien que a alguien le haya venido bien el tutorial!!! Se agradece mucho después del esfuerzo. Si necesitas que te haga alguna aclaración ya sabes donde estoy ;-)

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  5. Genialmente explicado!!!
    Besitos guapa

    ReplyDelete