Kaixooo!!!! Beno ba alkandoraren tutorialaren bigarren egunarekin natorkizue ;-) Atzoko pausu guztiak argi izatea espero dut, bestela badakizue lasai galdetu.
Gaurkoan piezak josiko ditugu, baina ez dugu edozein erara josiko, frantsez akabera emango diogu alkandorari.
Horretarako lehenengo ta behin gorputzeko piezak bata bestearen kontra jarri behar ditugu, barruko partea barrukoaren kontra. Eta orain sorbaldetan alfilerrak kokatuko ditugu, beheko argazkian begiratu nola geratzen den.
Hi there!!!! And now, tutorial´s second day ;-) I hope you understood all my previous steps, if not you can ask me.
Today, we are going to sew all the T-shirt´s seams, we will sew french seams.
First, with wrong sides together (front piece´s and back piece´s wrong sides), we are going to sew shoulders. For that, you have to place pins, along the shoulder (see the picture below).
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| Picture from Masustak Eguzkitan. |
Kanpoaldea bistan dugularik josiko dugu eta hilbanatu gabe. Alfilerrak orratzen norantzarekiko 90ºtara jartzen baditugu, josteko makinaren orratza alfilerren gainetik pasatu daiteke, alfilerrak apurtu gabe. Beharbada alfilerren bat apurtxo bat tolestu daiteke, baina makinako orratzari ez zaio ezer pasatzen.
Frantsez akabera egiteko, ertz bakoitza bi aldiz pasatzen da, lehenengo alde batetik eta gero bestetik hori dela eta gure joste tartea zati bi egin beharko dugu pasada bakoitzean. Nire joste tartea 15mm koa denez lehenengo pasadan 7,5mm koa egingo dut. Nire makinan neurri hori prensatelaseko ertzarekin alineatuta dago. Hau da, makinaren orratzetik prensatelasaren ertzerarte 7,5mm daude. Horregatik, ehunaren ertza prensatelasaren ertzarekin kokatuko dugu josten hasi baino lehen.
We don´t have to baste the pieces, if you put the pins at 90 ° from the direction of the needle, you'll be fine and your pins will not break, maybe some pin can twist a little, but nothing major.
To sew a french seam, you have to sew the same seam twice, first with wrong sides together and then with right sides together. So we have to divide our seam allowance and to use a half in our first turn. My seam allowance is 15mm, I divided it and now my seam allowance for the first turn is 7,5mm. This distance is the same as from my needle to the edge of my presserfoot, so the edge of my fabric and my presserfoot will go in the same place (see the picture below).
Frantsez akabera egiteko, ertz bakoitza bi aldiz pasatzen da, lehenengo alde batetik eta gero bestetik hori dela eta gure joste tartea zati bi egin beharko dugu pasada bakoitzean. Nire joste tartea 15mm koa denez lehenengo pasadan 7,5mm koa egingo dut. Nire makinan neurri hori prensatelaseko ertzarekin alineatuta dago. Hau da, makinaren orratzetik prensatelasaren ertzerarte 7,5mm daude. Horregatik, ehunaren ertza prensatelasaren ertzarekin kokatuko dugu josten hasi baino lehen.
We don´t have to baste the pieces, if you put the pins at 90 ° from the direction of the needle, you'll be fine and your pins will not break, maybe some pin can twist a little, but nothing major.
To sew a french seam, you have to sew the same seam twice, first with wrong sides together and then with right sides together. So we have to divide our seam allowance and to use a half in our first turn. My seam allowance is 15mm, I divided it and now my seam allowance for the first turn is 7,5mm. This distance is the same as from my needle to the edge of my presserfoot, so the edge of my fabric and my presserfoot will go in the same place (see the picture below).
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| Picture from Masustak Eguzkitan. |
Lehenengo pasada egin ostean, soberakina ebakiko dugu. Joste lerroaren ertzetik ebaki, kontu handiz egin zazue, nozbait jositakoa ere ebaki izan dut eta!
After making the first pass, we have to cut the excess fabric over the seam. Take care! A few projects ago, I cut all the seam and it was a disaster!
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| Picture from Masustak Eguzkitan. |
Soberakina ebakita daukagula, ehunari buelta eman eta barrukaldearekin topo egiten dugu. Orain alfilerrak bertan jarriko ditugu, eta horrela lehen josi duguna barrurantza geratuko da.
Then, you have to turn the garment and see the wrong sides. Now you have to place the pins in that side. The result is that the first seam is hidden.
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| Picture from Masustak Eguzkitan. |
Prensatelasarekin ehunaren ertza kokatu eta barrukaldetik josiko dugu.
With right side together, we are going to sew placing the edge of the fabric with the presserfoot´s edge.
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| Picture from Masustak Eguzkitan. |
Hurrengo argazkian ikusi daiteke emaitza. Azken finean gure ehunaren ertzak gordetzea lortzen dugu era garbi batean eta bultito hori lortzen da.
In the picture below, you can see the result. Namely, we have managed to hide the ends of fabric cut and in this way we have a small bump inside.
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| Picture from Masustak Eguzkitan. |
Ehunari berriz ere buelta ematen diogu eta jositako ertza plantxatzen dugu.
Turn the garment and iron the seam in the outside.
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| Picture from Masustak Eguzkitan. |
Eta orain gorputzaren aldamenak teknika berdina erabiliz josiko ditugu. Alfilerrak kokatu eta makinara!
And now, you have to do the same in all body´s seams (see the picture below, the pins are placed on the right and on the left). Place pins and sew!
And now, you have to do the same in all body´s seams (see the picture below, the pins are placed on the right and on the left). Place pins and sew!
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| Picture from Masustak Eguzkitan. |
Beno ba gaurko tutoriala amaitu dugu, bihar mahukak josiko dizkiogu!
So we have just finish the tutorial, tomorrow the sleeves!
So we have just finish the tutorial, tomorrow the sleeves!
Mira que le tengo ganas yo a la costura francesa... A ver si me ánimo... Muy bien explicadito, aunque in inglish a ver si pillo todo... Sino ya te punto, no problema!
ReplyDeletePara mi este tipo de costura es una pasada, porque queda super limpio. Pero bueno, si tienes una overlock, tal vez no necesites hacer costura francesa.
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